Finding the right suit pattern is easier said than done. This guide will help you navigate all of your options.
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In order to look your very best, you need to care about what you are wearing. A half-dashed attempt to look smart and elegant in any old suit is enough to scream to your friends, colleagues, and contemporaries that you haven’t got a clue about menswear, nor are you particularly interested in learning about suit style.
There are so many options on today’s market when it comes to men’s suit patterns and suit fabrics that it can feel like an unpleasant task to attempt to choose the correct type for yourself. However, all it takes is a few simple hints and tips to show you that it needn’t feel like a battle to look and feel your best in a brand-new suit.
In this article, we’ll discuss just that; the types of patterns and fabrics available, as well as buying tips, suit accessory ideas and so much more.
There’s seemingly no end to the amount of men’s suit patterns and fabrics out there. Both patterns and fabrics play a large role in a suit’s quality, formality and timelessness, and each should be considered before investing in one.
Solid colors are simply fabrics composed of a single color tone and lacking a pattern. Because of their timelessness and versatility, solid suits are a popular choice for formal wear and high-end pieces, as well as pieces bought to wear often.
Opting for a solid color is a popular choice for garments worn on special, formal occasions, like tuxedos, 3-piece, and wedding suits, or those with silk lapels. Yet, they are also a good option for business suits and everyday clothing such as blazers. Solid suits, such as charcoal suits, can also be made to look more visually appealing with the addition of accessories.
If you’re interested in learning more about colors, check out our guide for finding the right suit color.
There are a few different types of check patterns to consider for men’s suits. Windowpane patterns, unsurprisingly, resemble window panes. The stripes are thick and far apart and create a checkerboard effect. The glen plaid, also known as Prince of Wales, is composed of interlocking small and larger square plaid patterns. The pattern can, in part, often resemble a star where the larger and smaller checks overlap.
How easily a check pattern is pulled off is dependent on the pattern size, and bolder check patterns work best on more casual garments, such as sports jackets.
Houndstooth is a duotone textile pattern that is composed of four-pointed shapes or broken checks. These shapes usually come in black and white, but many other color combinations exist.
Sometimes confused with glen check, houndstooth is most usually reserved for more casual wear and isn’t usually seen on full suits. Bolder patterns work great for sport coats or vests, and subtler colors (i.e. white/tan) make a sophisticated pattern for a full suit.
Herringbone is made up of alternate diagonal lines which form a VVV pattern across the fabric and is named as such due to its resemblance to the skeleton of a fish, aka a “herring bone.”
Herringbone is a classic suit pattern that works for most occasions, from semi-formal to formal. The fabric is great for a full suit or simply a suit jacket pattern.
Birdseye can be seen as something in between solid colors and stripes. When examined closely, it becomes apparent that the overall pattern is composed of tiny dots. These tiny dots are of a lighter color embedded on a darker background, giving the impression of a solid color.
A bespoke suit crafted from birdseye gives a unique visual appeal when it’s examined closely and can work for casual, semi-formal, and formal events.
Pinstripes are a bold choice of pattern, consisting of horizontal lines that can work great on business suits. Chalk stripes are bolder and have a larger space between the white stripes which sit on a darker background. A self-stripe fabric, like chalk stripes, looks similar to pinstripes, but the difference is in the weaving used to create the lines instead of using a different colored fabric.
A pinstriped suit can easily look somewhat dated and is thus becoming less common– though styled the right way, these men’s suits can still look quite striking. More subtle patterns of pinstripes can still today make great business suits.
Considering different types of fabric is an important consideration when choosing a suit. The type of fabric you decide on can influence when and where it is worn.
As we have previously mentioned, there are countless options when it comes to choosing the right patterns and fabrics. Each can work for a variety of occasions and events, which can make picking the perfect suit feel difficult. With a few considerations, you can find the perfect suit to compliment your body and your climate, as well as the frequency you will wear it.
Body types and suit patterns relate to each other in that certain patterns give the benefit of making larger men look thinner, while others will have the opposite effect.
Why some patterns look better on others has nothing to do with confidence or how they carry themselves, but everything to do with the shape of their body and matching it correctly to a pattern that is flattering. Let’s look at an example. If you have a larger frame, pinstripes are your best friend. Not only can they make you look slimmer, but they can also have the added illusion of making you look taller. The same goes for shorter men.
To get the best benefits from pinstripes, smaller men should look for pinstripes that are thin and compactly spaced together, while larger framed men should avail of wider stripes, more widely spaced apart.
It’s very important that any suit fabric you are considering works well in the climate that you live in. If you live in colder areas of the country, consider fabrics that will keep you warm while not weighing you down and looking out of place, like wool, tweed, and flannel.
In warmer climates, it’s a good idea to think about lighter suit materials. For example, linen and cotton, and even some lighter forms of wool, allow breathability and won’t transform you into something that just crawled out of the gym sauna.
When choosing a suit pattern, think about how often you intend to wear the suit. Choosing something that is slightly more subtle can mean that you will likely get more use out of the suit due to it being a versatile design.
Solid colors, in this instance, would work very well at both semi-formal and formal events and the suit could be recycled time and time again for such occasions. If, on the other hand, your suit is for a one-off event, then you can consider venturing out into more patterned and creative fabrics if the suit matches the tone and intent of the event.
Regardless of which type of men’s suit patterns you decide on, there are additional ways in which you can make your suit look like a smart showstopper. Three of these key styling features revolve around tailoring, undershirts, and accessories, each of which we’ll talk about in a bit more detail below.
It’s worth your time, effort, and investment to get just about any suit tailored. Tailoring adds the finishing touches to your suit, crafting and honing it to perfectly contour your body, ensuring it’s the correct shape. It also lets you add your own subtle sense of style by adding some personal touches and finesse. An ill-fitting suit looks good on no one, so invest more money on ensuring your suit looks its very best on you at all times with some bespoke tailoring.
In order to look the very best in any suit, regardless of the pattern, it’s important to invest in a high-quality undershirt. A well-made undershirt will help eliminate any bunchiness, giving your silhouette a more streamlined appearance to help you feel and look your very best on any occasion. These undergarments also have the distinct benefit of helping your suit to last longer.
An undershirt that is moisture-wicking will help to absorb sweat so that, even in the toughest of sales pitches or work meetings, you stay looking your best. Because the perspiration will absorb into the undershirt and not through your suit shirt and onto your jacket, the jacket won’t need to be dry cleaned as often. This means the color and quality of the suit will stay around for years to come.
UnderFit makes the perfect undershirts to wear under a suit. They check all of these boxes and more. Take a look at our crew necks, V-necks and the invisible undershirt to see if we’re right for you.
Suit accessories can add a touch of sophistication and enhance just about any suit. Adding subtle details will make the overall composition of your look more refined and well thought-out while putting your own personal stamp on your appearance. Accessories can help you to dress a suit up for more formal occasions or dress it down to stay more casual.
Depending on the dress code, you can get creative, adding finish touches such as watches, cufflinks, ties, pocket squares, and even umbrellas into the mix. Choosing one or two of these accessories (be careful not to overdo it) can look dapper and exhibit your confidence and charm.
Choosing the right suit pattern and fabric shouldn’t be a difficult task. By bearing in mind a few key considerations, such as when and where you might wear it, you can make a considered and informed choice that you’ll be pleased with.No matter what suit you choose, consider an undershirt from UnderFit to perfectly cement a streamlined look, keep you free from sweat patches, prevent your shirt from riding up and avoid creating an unattractive bulk at the base of your back and stomach. Undershirts will make the entire outfit feel more put together, giving you the confidence you need to nail any event.
Leigh is the owner of UnderFit, a premium men's undershirt brand based in Philadelphia, PA. You can follow Leigh on LinkedIn and Twitter.
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